Wedding Suits That Work: Suit Up the Right Way

(Custom suits by OWNONLY)

From his childhood days till the time he breathes his last, a man encounters several landmarks in his life. His wedding day is one such important milestone, one which changes his life completely.

There’s no doubt about the fact that every man would like to look his best on this special day.

If men could, they would most definitely pick out a men’s designer wedding suit and wear it with élan.

We all know how shopping for the big day gives men the jitters. After all, there’s so much to do and such little time. The most important part for a groom, however, is to pick out the perfect wedding suit for himself – a suit which pronounces that it is his special day!

One of the biggest myths related to preparing for the wedding day is that men have it easy as far as shopping and dressing up for their D-day is concerned.  
The truth is far from this notion, though. For men, finding the right wedding suit is as important as it is for women. And it better be, after all, it’s no ordinary suit you’re looking for. It is your wedding suit! So everything needs to be just right.
 
Before you buy a suit, it is important that you know what your options are.
As far as the color of your suit is concerned, the rule of thumb dictates that you choose something depending on the time of the day at which your wedding is to be held.

A daytime wedding would call for a suit in a light-color like beige, tan or subtle shades of grey. On the other hand, for an evening wedding, dark colors would be the way to go.

The classic black suit with a bow-tie and (maybe even a boutonniere) is your safest bet and is sure to always hit the right notes when worn.

(Custom suits by OWNONLY)

When it comes to suiting up, you have a plethora of men’s wedding outfits to choose from – the semi-formal suit, the morning suit, the British suit, the Italian suit, and the American suit.

The semi-formal suit is the laid-back version of the formal wedding suit. A well-ironed smooth shirt, immaculately tailored trousers, and a matching smart yet comfortable suit jacket are all that you need to put together to create this ensemble. The material of your suit depends on the weather, but tweed or cotton is a good option.

The morning suit consists of a traditional jacket with tails. It is typically paired with striped trousers, although matching the color of the jacket with that of the trouser is also acceptable. You can opt for a colored shirt with this suit. But do ensure that the collar and the cuffs are white. If you plan to wear a vest under the jacket, make sure it complements the color of your suit.

The British suit is a more traditional suit with the jacket being either single or double-breasted. It is normally made with a heavy fabric and the fit is more snug than loose.

The American suit is quite similar to the British suit, with the only exception being that the jacket is more on the baggy side. The jacket is single-breasted with a slight or no padding at the shoulders.

The Italian suit is what most modern grooms go for as it looks smart and trendy. It has a slim fit and the jacket gently embraces the body. Its length is shorter than regular suits. That’s the reason why its buttons are placed higher. The pockets do not have flaps and the suit lends you a structured look.  

So enough about what the groom should wear! What if you’re not the groom?
What if you’re the groomsman?

Groomsmen have an important role to play at weddings. 

(Image credit: Pinterest)

As a groomsman at a wedding, you need to dress appropriately and ensure that you do not overshadow the groom. Your groomsman suit should be smart and should fit well within the parameters requested by the groom. Keep in mind that you are not there to attract attention to yourself. Your presence should help in the fruition of an important event in the lives of two families.

So now that it’s obvious that you will not be dressing like the groom, you need to work on wearing something different yet understated.

A semi-formal suit in beige or tan is a great option, if it is a summer wedding. Pick a grey suit for a winter wedding. A popular trend these days is to incorporate a color from the bridal party into the groomsmen’s attire, so you may want to think about that.

To add a bit of funk and modernity to your outfit, consider wearing suspenders. Ring bearers can give this idea a try as well.  

If you’re going as a guest, you don’t have much to worry about. Most wedding invitations clearly mention what they expect their guests to wear by setting a dress code.

More often than not, it is black tie and business casual, so you would do well by sporting a navy or a dark-colored suit with a crisp white shirt.

However, if the invitation does not mention the dress code, figure out your attire by considering the location. There’s a high chance that a small-town outdoor wedding will be much less of a formal affair than a big-city church wedding.

The time of the day needs to be factored in too, because day weddings tend to be less formal than evening ones. In fact, showing up in a tuxedo for a daytime event is considered a fashion blunder by several fashionistas.

You can also take cues from the invitation card itself. If it is extravagant, it may be a good idea to spend some time planning your outfit and dressing like the perfect guest.

And then there are the laid-back weddings wherein the couple specifically asks their guests to dress casually. This can get dicey because the definition of ‘casual’ varies from person to person. To handle such tricky situations, be prepared by not only dressing as per what you think is right, but also carrying an upscale casual outfit in your car, just in case you realize that you’re under-dressed.  

While it said that it is always better to be over-dressed than under-dressed, it is best to be dressed perfectly as per the occasion. A true gentleman is aware of the fact that his clothing is not just about him, but is a reflection of the regard he has for those around him. Dress your best not just because it is a special occasion for you, but also because it is special for everyone you love!

A Guide to Lapel Styles

There was a time, more than a hundred years ago, when men’s coats fastened straight up the front to the neck. When indoors or in hot weather, men would unfasten the upper buttons of their coats and fold-over the front panels at an angle. This was the origin of the jacket lapel, which has seen many changes in shape, size, and proportion over the years but has remained a standard in menswear. In fact, modern lapels are largely identical in form to their 1930s counterparts.

From a pattern-making and tailoring perspective, the lapels are created by sewing together two layers of the jacket’s front panel and connecting them to the collar piece which wraps around the neck. On a well-made jacket there is often a piece of canvas gently hand-sewn between the two panels, which gives the jacket additional structure and dimension. Some historians of dress such as Bernard Rudofsky have ridiculed the evolution of jacket lapels into “vastly unnecessary flaps” and “decorative rudiments”, while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into “fetishes” as part and parcel of fashion as expression.

Lapels typically have a buttonhole on the left, which is intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. To hold the flower properly, a loop is fixed to the back of the lapel. For symmetry, double-breasted suits often have a button hole on each lapel.

Today there are three basic lapel shapes, although they come in a variety of widths and each designer has their own subtle take in terms of angles and lines. The lapel style is perhaps the most important (and eye-catching) element of a jacket and ultimately determines what it should be used for, along with the fabric, fit, button closure, etc.

Here’s a quick breakdown of your options.

THE NOTCH LAPEL

The “notch” is the “sideways V” shape (<) between the top of the bottom of the collar and the top of the lapel. This is easily the most common lapel type (it’s much simpler and cheaper to cut than a peak) and has long been the standard on single-breasted suit jackets and sport coats. Old school jackets (think 80’s Armani) had wide notches and low gorge lines (the sewing line that connects the lapel to the collar). As trends have swung and lapels have narrowed we’ve also seen much smaller notches, sometimes called “fishmouth”.

If you’re only going to own one suit, make it a notch lapel in a medium width (roughly 3-3.5”). It’s the most timeless and versatile style you can buy and appropriate for everything from job interviews and your first day at work to weddings and high-end restaurants. If you’re choosing a lapel style on a custom piece, consider the fabric and style of the jacket. If it’s an unstructured jacket in a fabric that leans casual (like cotton or linen) it’s probably best suited for a notch.

THE PEAK LAPEL

So called because of the pointed tips, the peak lapel can be traced back to the frock coats of Louis XIV’s reign in the sixteenth century. Historians believe they came about simply out of a necessity to keep the neck warm and dry in inclement weather (by popping them up for coverage). Due to their historical association with morning coats and tailcoats, the peak lapel is by nature a more formal style. For this reason, they have become the standard on double-breasted jackets and tuxedos. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, however, the peak lapel found its way onto many single-breasted suits and dinner jackets.

The peak lapel should be reserved for more formal, structured jackets in sharp fabrics like worsted wools and mohairs. They can give the appearance of broader shoulders and increased height – making them perfect for the power businessman, the shorter gent, and those carrying a few extra pounds who desire a lengthening effect. Ideally the lapel should be in proportion to the width of the wearer, covering roughly half the distance from the roll line to the shoulder seam. As we’ve mentioned, flattering the body with proper tailoring is all about proportions.

THE SHAWL COLLAR

The shawl collar, which is one continuous piece all the way around the neck, is becoming more and more popular with tailored gents looking for a suave cut. This is probably due to its promiscuous past, given that it was the lapel of choice for gentlemen’s clubs where the smoking jacket was the required uniform. It’s a swanky and decadent look, best reserved for evening wear and dinner jackets with only one button (although some designers have begun using them with more traditional suiting fabrics).

Although it’s one smooth piece of cloth, there are still plenty of considerations in terms of size and shape. The jacket pictured above, for example, has a squared-off bottom and actually gets slightly wider toward the bottom, as opposed to the traditional shawl which gets narrowest at the button. Lastly, in my opinion, a shawl collar should be reserved for bowties, not straight ties.

3 Ways to Amp Up Your Suit Game feat. Cory Sylvester

The baseball player, turned actor, turned clothier is now the man in charge of measuring & fitting at one of NYC’s premiere custom menswear shops; Michael Andrews Bespoke. I have to respect Cory’s hustle since I was his predecessor in that position (before AofS I apprenticed under Michael; learning the ins-and-outs of the tailoring business while simultaneously working-off my bespoke suit balance).

When your job is making guys look their best in tailoredwear, you learn how to wear a suit with ease, comfort, and confidence.

Here Cory shows us a few ways to take your suit game to the next level.

MICRO PATTERNS

Pattern-mixing doesn’t have to be all bold and in-your-face.

Try shrinking down your patterns for effect, like this micro shadow plaid on tight polka dot.