Wedding Suits That Work: Suit Up the Right Way

(Custom suits by OWNONLY)

From his childhood days till the time he breathes his last, a man encounters several landmarks in his life. His wedding day is one such important milestone, one which changes his life completely.

There’s no doubt about the fact that every man would like to look his best on this special day.

If men could, they would most definitely pick out a men’s designer wedding suit and wear it with élan.

We all know how shopping for the big day gives men the jitters. After all, there’s so much to do and such little time. The most important part for a groom, however, is to pick out the perfect wedding suit for himself – a suit which pronounces that it is his special day!

One of the biggest myths related to preparing for the wedding day is that men have it easy as far as shopping and dressing up for their D-day is concerned.  
The truth is far from this notion, though. For men, finding the right wedding suit is as important as it is for women. And it better be, after all, it’s no ordinary suit you’re looking for. It is your wedding suit! So everything needs to be just right.
 
Before you buy a suit, it is important that you know what your options are.
As far as the color of your suit is concerned, the rule of thumb dictates that you choose something depending on the time of the day at which your wedding is to be held.

A daytime wedding would call for a suit in a light-color like beige, tan or subtle shades of grey. On the other hand, for an evening wedding, dark colors would be the way to go.

The classic black suit with a bow-tie and (maybe even a boutonniere) is your safest bet and is sure to always hit the right notes when worn.

(Custom suits by OWNONLY)

When it comes to suiting up, you have a plethora of men’s wedding outfits to choose from – the semi-formal suit, the morning suit, the British suit, the Italian suit, and the American suit.

The semi-formal suit is the laid-back version of the formal wedding suit. A well-ironed smooth shirt, immaculately tailored trousers, and a matching smart yet comfortable suit jacket are all that you need to put together to create this ensemble. The material of your suit depends on the weather, but tweed or cotton is a good option.

The morning suit consists of a traditional jacket with tails. It is typically paired with striped trousers, although matching the color of the jacket with that of the trouser is also acceptable. You can opt for a colored shirt with this suit. But do ensure that the collar and the cuffs are white. If you plan to wear a vest under the jacket, make sure it complements the color of your suit.

The British suit is a more traditional suit with the jacket being either single or double-breasted. It is normally made with a heavy fabric and the fit is more snug than loose.

The American suit is quite similar to the British suit, with the only exception being that the jacket is more on the baggy side. The jacket is single-breasted with a slight or no padding at the shoulders.

The Italian suit is what most modern grooms go for as it looks smart and trendy. It has a slim fit and the jacket gently embraces the body. Its length is shorter than regular suits. That’s the reason why its buttons are placed higher. The pockets do not have flaps and the suit lends you a structured look.  

So enough about what the groom should wear! What if you’re not the groom?
What if you’re the groomsman?

Groomsmen have an important role to play at weddings. 

(Image credit: Pinterest)

As a groomsman at a wedding, you need to dress appropriately and ensure that you do not overshadow the groom. Your groomsman suit should be smart and should fit well within the parameters requested by the groom. Keep in mind that you are not there to attract attention to yourself. Your presence should help in the fruition of an important event in the lives of two families.

So now that it’s obvious that you will not be dressing like the groom, you need to work on wearing something different yet understated.

A semi-formal suit in beige or tan is a great option, if it is a summer wedding. Pick a grey suit for a winter wedding. A popular trend these days is to incorporate a color from the bridal party into the groomsmen’s attire, so you may want to think about that.

To add a bit of funk and modernity to your outfit, consider wearing suspenders. Ring bearers can give this idea a try as well.  

If you’re going as a guest, you don’t have much to worry about. Most wedding invitations clearly mention what they expect their guests to wear by setting a dress code.

More often than not, it is black tie and business casual, so you would do well by sporting a navy or a dark-colored suit with a crisp white shirt.

However, if the invitation does not mention the dress code, figure out your attire by considering the location. There’s a high chance that a small-town outdoor wedding will be much less of a formal affair than a big-city church wedding.

The time of the day needs to be factored in too, because day weddings tend to be less formal than evening ones. In fact, showing up in a tuxedo for a daytime event is considered a fashion blunder by several fashionistas.

You can also take cues from the invitation card itself. If it is extravagant, it may be a good idea to spend some time planning your outfit and dressing like the perfect guest.

And then there are the laid-back weddings wherein the couple specifically asks their guests to dress casually. This can get dicey because the definition of ‘casual’ varies from person to person. To handle such tricky situations, be prepared by not only dressing as per what you think is right, but also carrying an upscale casual outfit in your car, just in case you realize that you’re under-dressed.  

While it said that it is always better to be over-dressed than under-dressed, it is best to be dressed perfectly as per the occasion. A true gentleman is aware of the fact that his clothing is not just about him, but is a reflection of the regard he has for those around him. Dress your best not just because it is a special occasion for you, but also because it is special for everyone you love!

VERSACE MENSWEAR AUTUMN WINTER 2015/16 COLLECTION

I had the pleasure of attending the gorgeous Versace Menswear Autumn Winter 2015/16 Collection show at Milan Fashion Week earlier this month to witness some of the most amazing pieces pieces presented by the Donatella Versace.

The introduction of the new Versace suit, with a neat constructed shoulder and a sharp shorter jacket length, in a variety of styles and cloths.

Cashmere knitwear is a focus, whether it’s fine-gauge long rib knit tops, or chunky knit sweaters and cardigans that sit below the hips.

Tone-on-tone dressing gives a fine look, especially when it’s a single-button suit worn with matching shirt and tie.

Fur is an essential, with full or cropped hooded coats in mink, plus a bomber of intarsia mink. Fur also trims coat collars and the inside of hoods.

Graphic black-and-white blanket coats are noble, while double-breasted coats are long and lean, with a dominant power.

Metal details shine throughout, from the gold tabs that fasten tailori

TOD’S FALL WINTER 2015/16 MEN’S COLLECTION

Made in Italy: Tailoring and Technical Flair.

Tod’s presents their Fall Winter 2015/16 Men’s Collection at Milan Fashion Week in a beautiful Villa in the heart of the city. With live models wearing the latest pieces, it was by far my favourite presentation in Milan.

Another favourite were the printed gommino loafers displayed throughout the bookshelf library. I wouldn’t mind having this type of library in my room!

Another highlight for me were the impeccable coats and blazers, as well as a smashing line of sneakers that I cannot wait to get my hands on.

Also, stay tuned for a campaign shoot I did with Tod’s during my stay in Milan, showcasing the latest ready to wear pieces from their Fall Winter 2015/16 collection.

A Guide to Lapel Styles

There was a time, more than a hundred years ago, when men’s coats fastened straight up the front to the neck. When indoors or in hot weather, men would unfasten the upper buttons of their coats and fold-over the front panels at an angle. This was the origin of the jacket lapel, which has seen many changes in shape, size, and proportion over the years but has remained a standard in menswear. In fact, modern lapels are largely identical in form to their 1930s counterparts.

From a pattern-making and tailoring perspective, the lapels are created by sewing together two layers of the jacket’s front panel and connecting them to the collar piece which wraps around the neck. On a well-made jacket there is often a piece of canvas gently hand-sewn between the two panels, which gives the jacket additional structure and dimension. Some historians of dress such as Bernard Rudofsky have ridiculed the evolution of jacket lapels into “vastly unnecessary flaps” and “decorative rudiments”, while others have celebrated the transformation of lapels into “fetishes” as part and parcel of fashion as expression.

Lapels typically have a buttonhole on the left, which is intended to hold a boutonnière, a decorative flower. These are now only commonly seen at more formal events. To hold the flower properly, a loop is fixed to the back of the lapel. For symmetry, double-breasted suits often have a button hole on each lapel.

Today there are three basic lapel shapes, although they come in a variety of widths and each designer has their own subtle take in terms of angles and lines. The lapel style is perhaps the most important (and eye-catching) element of a jacket and ultimately determines what it should be used for, along with the fabric, fit, button closure, etc.

Here’s a quick breakdown of your options.

THE NOTCH LAPEL

The “notch” is the “sideways V” shape (<) between the top of the bottom of the collar and the top of the lapel. This is easily the most common lapel type (it’s much simpler and cheaper to cut than a peak) and has long been the standard on single-breasted suit jackets and sport coats. Old school jackets (think 80’s Armani) had wide notches and low gorge lines (the sewing line that connects the lapel to the collar). As trends have swung and lapels have narrowed we’ve also seen much smaller notches, sometimes called “fishmouth”.

If you’re only going to own one suit, make it a notch lapel in a medium width (roughly 3-3.5”). It’s the most timeless and versatile style you can buy and appropriate for everything from job interviews and your first day at work to weddings and high-end restaurants. If you’re choosing a lapel style on a custom piece, consider the fabric and style of the jacket. If it’s an unstructured jacket in a fabric that leans casual (like cotton or linen) it’s probably best suited for a notch.

THE PEAK LAPEL

So called because of the pointed tips, the peak lapel can be traced back to the frock coats of Louis XIV’s reign in the sixteenth century. Historians believe they came about simply out of a necessity to keep the neck warm and dry in inclement weather (by popping them up for coverage). Due to their historical association with morning coats and tailcoats, the peak lapel is by nature a more formal style. For this reason, they have become the standard on double-breasted jackets and tuxedos. Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, however, the peak lapel found its way onto many single-breasted suits and dinner jackets.

The peak lapel should be reserved for more formal, structured jackets in sharp fabrics like worsted wools and mohairs. They can give the appearance of broader shoulders and increased height – making them perfect for the power businessman, the shorter gent, and those carrying a few extra pounds who desire a lengthening effect. Ideally the lapel should be in proportion to the width of the wearer, covering roughly half the distance from the roll line to the shoulder seam. As we’ve mentioned, flattering the body with proper tailoring is all about proportions.

THE SHAWL COLLAR

The shawl collar, which is one continuous piece all the way around the neck, is becoming more and more popular with tailored gents looking for a suave cut. This is probably due to its promiscuous past, given that it was the lapel of choice for gentlemen’s clubs where the smoking jacket was the required uniform. It’s a swanky and decadent look, best reserved for evening wear and dinner jackets with only one button (although some designers have begun using them with more traditional suiting fabrics).

Although it’s one smooth piece of cloth, there are still plenty of considerations in terms of size and shape. The jacket pictured above, for example, has a squared-off bottom and actually gets slightly wider toward the bottom, as opposed to the traditional shawl which gets narrowest at the button. Lastly, in my opinion, a shawl collar should be reserved for bowties, not straight ties.

Working It: On and Off Duty

One of the most frequent requests is for looks that transition well from the office to off-duty hours after work. Here’s an example that makes use of a basic menswear color palate and some well-placed accessories.

I’ve mentioned before that this was going to be the season of the turtleneck for me. And I’ve been loving it as an alternative to a button-up and tie under a blazer. It’s the perfect combination of dressy and casual chic. Appropriate for the office as well as an after work drinks date. A seamless transition from day to night.

When it’s super cold out, a silk scarf obviously won’t keep you as warm as a heavy wool number. But for those milder days, it’s the perfect finishing touch.

The Unstructured Travel Jacket

As you may already know I love casual, unstructured, “soft” tailoring.  In my opinion it’s the ideal way for a modern gentleman to dress.

I designed this jacket with the NYC-based team behind online custom clothier Black Lapel (as seen in our Online Custom Suit Review) for two reasons. First, I wanted to test their ability to create a fully unstructured made-to-measure jacket (which they just about nailed) and second, I’ve been researching and sampling different manufacturing techniques for my own collection – which will be available later this year. More on all that later.

This particular jacket, a sort of experiment for Black Lapel, has no shoulder padding, no sleeve heads, and no chest canvas whatsoever. The result is a “shell” of a jacket, made from a soft wool flannel fabric.

In my opinion, this makes for a jacket that strikes the perfect balance between dress and casual. It’s still a sharply cut sportcoat, but it looks and feels less rigid and more causal than a traditional tailored jacket.

The advantages of an unstructured jacket:

it’s a versatile piece that can truly be dressed-up or dressed-down
it’s lightweight on the body and very breathable
it’s flexible, making it more comfortable than a canvassed jacket
it’s easily packable. I rolled this one below to show that it’s really just one piece of cloth.

5 Trends that Need To End in 2015

As a rule, I don’t regularly comment on trends or give out opinions one way or the other. Style is personal and what you make of it. Plus, there’s something to be said for keeping it positive in a field that can sometimes be overwhelmed by negativity. But reflecting on the year that was in menswear and having been a participant in the conversation for nearly two years now, I thought I’d review some of the things we might collectively want to forget about this year. So, here are five trends that need to end in 2015.

Before I get into this, I want to put something out there. How do a lot of these trends flourish? I blame the internet and social media. This may sound hypocritical since it’s the internet and social media that give me this very opportunity. But as an “influencer,” I feel an immense responsibility to you, my audience. A responsibility to be authentic, to have integrity, to produce content that expresses my point of view, my aesthetic, and that is not controlled solely by marketers and brand campaigns.

Shoes For Life

They say always spend the most money on your shoes and i totally agree. Spending as much as you can on good quality shoes is an investment that will save you money in the long run given the right care and treatment.

So you’ve spent all your hard earned cash on quality leather shoes which means you’ll have to come up with a good shoe care routine. It goes without saying if your’e buying your shoes from a reputable source then you will no doubt be given some expert shoe care tips and products to purchase.

In this post i will give you a few pointers and the products i use to keep your shoes looking tiptop. As you buy your new shoes i couldn’t recommend more than also buying good quality shoe trees. Avoid plastic ones as these give no benefit to the shoe. I use Selvyt Cedar Wood Trees.

Style Resolutions for a Better-Dressed 2015

Happy New Year Everybody!

The first of the year is a time for starting over, making resolutions and setting new goals. If dressing better is one of your goals, here are five simple resolutions that will have you looking your best through all the adventures of 2015.

1. CLEAR OUT THE TRASH

If you have a closet or drawers full of old clothes that you don’t like wearing (but for some reason often reach for in a pinch) clear it out. Make piles for: donate to charity, sell on eBay, and bring to the tailor for alterations.

2. CLEAN & ORGANIZE YOUR CLOSET

Keeping your bedroom clean and your closet organized is one of the best things you can do to make proper use of your wardrobe. Organize your closet in a way that allows you to see all of your options and know exactly where items are stored. (“Closet Set-Up” article coming soon)

3. PLAN YOUR WARDROBE PURCHASES

Impulse shopping does not make for a solid reliable wardrobe. Make a list of the essentials you need and build a wardrobe the smart way. This will also allow you to save some money by giving you time to shop around in places like second-hand shops or websites like eBay.

New Years Eve: A Night for Dinner Jackets

New Year’s Eve – the one night a year that calls for a dinner jacket – is just around the corner.

There’s no better way to start a new year than partying like a gentleman.

Here are some ideas on celebrating in style.

SHAWL DINNER JACKET

The shawl dinner jacket (in black, midnight blue or charcoal grey) is a staple in a well-dressed gentleman’s wardrobe. Look for a trim-cut jacket with a one-button front and you’ll be covered for formal events as well as casual evenings out (more on that later).

Advanced Outerwear: The Statement Topcoat

Cold weather is coat weather. And when it comes to winter dress, nothing has a bigger impact on your style than the coat you wear. This fall and winter it’s been all about the statement topcoat. Here’s an example.

In menswear, we often use the term “statement” to mean bold, wild, or even outrageous. And while that’s certainly one interpretation, it’s not the only one. There are a variety of ways to make a statement with a topcoat that don’t require you to be an “insider” or to possess an f— you attitude.

A statement topcoat can have a large lapel, be made with an interestingly textured fabric, have a unique silhouette, a not-messing-around fur collar, or a simple repeating pattern, or just be slightly longer than 3/4 length.

The one I’m wearing, like my quilted topcoat, is from Montezemolo. One of my new favorite brands. Obviously easy to dress up, but works just as well in a casual context.