TOD’S FALL WINTER 2015/16 MEN’S COLLECTION

Made in Italy: Tailoring and Technical Flair.

Tod’s presents their Fall Winter 2015/16 Men’s Collection at Milan Fashion Week in a beautiful Villa in the heart of the city. With live models wearing the latest pieces, it was by far my favourite presentation in Milan.

Another favourite were the printed gommino loafers displayed throughout the bookshelf library. I wouldn’t mind having this type of library in my room!

Another highlight for me were the impeccable coats and blazers, as well as a smashing line of sneakers that I cannot wait to get my hands on.

Also, stay tuned for a campaign shoot I did with Tod’s during my stay in Milan, showcasing the latest ready to wear pieces from their Fall Winter 2015/16 collection.

Working It: On and Off Duty

One of the most frequent requests is for looks that transition well from the office to off-duty hours after work. Here’s an example that makes use of a basic menswear color palate and some well-placed accessories.

I’ve mentioned before that this was going to be the season of the turtleneck for me. And I’ve been loving it as an alternative to a button-up and tie under a blazer. It’s the perfect combination of dressy and casual chic. Appropriate for the office as well as an after work drinks date. A seamless transition from day to night.

When it’s super cold out, a silk scarf obviously won’t keep you as warm as a heavy wool number. But for those milder days, it’s the perfect finishing touch.

The Unstructured Travel Jacket

As you may already know I love casual, unstructured, “soft” tailoring.  In my opinion it’s the ideal way for a modern gentleman to dress.

I designed this jacket with the NYC-based team behind online custom clothier Black Lapel (as seen in our Online Custom Suit Review) for two reasons. First, I wanted to test their ability to create a fully unstructured made-to-measure jacket (which they just about nailed) and second, I’ve been researching and sampling different manufacturing techniques for my own collection – which will be available later this year. More on all that later.

This particular jacket, a sort of experiment for Black Lapel, has no shoulder padding, no sleeve heads, and no chest canvas whatsoever. The result is a “shell” of a jacket, made from a soft wool flannel fabric.

In my opinion, this makes for a jacket that strikes the perfect balance between dress and casual. It’s still a sharply cut sportcoat, but it looks and feels less rigid and more causal than a traditional tailored jacket.

The advantages of an unstructured jacket:

it’s a versatile piece that can truly be dressed-up or dressed-down
it’s lightweight on the body and very breathable
it’s flexible, making it more comfortable than a canvassed jacket
it’s easily packable. I rolled this one below to show that it’s really just one piece of cloth.

THE COMPARISON BETWEEN 2 CUSTOM SUITS ONLINE STORES: INDOCHINO.COM & OWNONLY.COM

With the explosion of online custom tailors in recent years, led by venture-backed companies such as Indochino and bolstered by fledgling, well-regarded entrants like OWNONLY, here is a released guide to show you comparison between those two made-to-measure suits and shirts online store.

Indochino doesn't just specialize in dress shirts, but in all sorts of upscale menswear, including two-pieces, three-pieces suits, pants and slacks, blazers and coats, and even those tinny accessories like ties, cuff links, belts. Select the styles that you want and buy your favorite, or walk you through its unique customization process to make sure you get a suit that really match your style and shape. They spring for shipping and fees, deliver custom orders in 4 weeks, and have a really simple, neat site that makes your shopping easily. Many of your praised Indochino for its really good looking clothes, from mix and match shirts and slacks to full formal suits.

To be honest, OWNONLY is not very good at making website, but for a new online store (they have several tailors with different brands), we should understand this. But they really have a great product and price, many people say they are half canvas handcrafted, but if over dry-cleaned,can lead to bubbling in the chest area (this is caused when the wool separates from the fusing), The canvas allows the suit fabric to drape properly and will mold to your body over time, so I like their suits, perfect fitted, good price (starts from 269 dollars), that’s one reason why I don't even think to buy a costly "Bespoke Suit"

I have to say OWNONLY is like another version of Indochino, and it's not a successful copy, the order delivery time if Indochino is 4 weeks, one week longer than OWNONLY, they both provide a alteration fee to the clients, you can feel free shopping on it. Although Indochino has a little higher price (100 dollars +), but it also has a great shopping experience, their website is really easy-to-use! They all use "Reda" fabric, which is a Italian famous fabric brand, but OWNONLY also use "ZEGNA" & "Lorro Piana", it said they also have "Cerriti 1881" but I didn't find it. Super 160s is the finest fabric of OWNONLY, it's the softest material that I have ever bought in my life.

The last point is that they all have a good customer service, not like tailor4less, they don't return any product sold.

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If you want to buy,click here to get Ownonly coupons and Indochino coupons.

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3 Ways to Amp Up Your Suit Game feat. Cory Sylvester

The baseball player, turned actor, turned clothier is now the man in charge of measuring & fitting at one of NYC’s premiere custom menswear shops; Michael Andrews Bespoke. I have to respect Cory’s hustle since I was his predecessor in that position (before AofS I apprenticed under Michael; learning the ins-and-outs of the tailoring business while simultaneously working-off my bespoke suit balance).

When your job is making guys look their best in tailoredwear, you learn how to wear a suit with ease, comfort, and confidence.

Here Cory shows us a few ways to take your suit game to the next level.

MICRO PATTERNS

Pattern-mixing doesn’t have to be all bold and in-your-face.

Try shrinking down your patterns for effect, like this micro shadow plaid on tight polka dot.